Monday, November 17, 2008

SURFER DUDE REPORTS

I have been thinking of taking a surfing lesson since before we hit the left coast but it has often been cool and cloudy as we have traveled down the coast. Here at last, at Morro Beach (235 miles south of San Francisco), weather, time, a surf shop/school and me feeling particularly adventurous came together.


Surf shops seem to be run by surfer dudes who seem, at least from my few dealings with them, not too sharp about business. It took repeated phone calls to get them to set up the appointment.
Then Dustin, father of 3, just back from winning a surfing contest showed up on time and off we went.


The on-the-beach lesson part was brief and soon we were into the very cold (mid 50's) ocean water; I was wearing only a fairly light wet suit.

Dustin guided me into the surf, told me when to get on the board lying down, turned the board around, watched for the wave, pushed me into it and shouted "pop up". The parts that he did were all easy - the popping up is the hard part. It is where you go from lying down on the board to standing up in one smooth motion all while the board is surging on top of a wave and rocking and rolling in every direction. Too much weight left or right and the board turns sideways to the wave and you roll. Weight too far forward,the board dives and you go over the front; too far back and you fall over backward.

Sound like fun?

It was!

And after many tries and lots of tumbles I even got up and rode the wave for a few seconds.

Wow, what a thrill.

Even went back in the afternoon after my body temperature came up to normal and had another go at it without Dustin. Still lots of fun but much more difficult.

If I am going to get reasonably good at this it will take some practice - we will see.

3 comments:

Heather J. said...

Way to go! Sounds like you had a great time ... but I'm cold just THINKING about it. :)

Barbara said...

I think he would have preferred warmer water and/or a heavier wetsuit -- but did great!

michael said...

hello you two,
michael here I know it's been a while but I'm here now ....I've been reading about your trip it really sounds like fun,,, just wanted to say Hi
love you both , lets talk soon
michael
I will email with more news